Monday, July 29, 2013

37 Things I Have Learned About Panama

1. In a country the size of South Carolina it’s crazy to imagine how Panama became such a melting pot.  Similar to the US, Panama experienced its initial migration, its immigration, and its continuous rocky slope relationship with the indigenous people.  Chriqiui, Ngobe, Bocas del Toro, Colon, Panama, and Darien are so different its almost equivalent of crossing the Mason-Dixon Line and all of a sudden winding up in Jamaica.

2. Panama is hot.  So hot in fact, that its better to wear a shirt to bed so there is a layer of protection between your skin and scratchy sheets. 

3. But, Panama has mountains, BIG mountains.  This also means that Panama actually has cool temperatures.  (This is my number 1 want in a site).
Peña Blanca


4. During my Spanish proficiency test, there were noises and sounds coming out of my mouth I had no idea existed as I searched my mind for words I obviously didn’t know.

5. In general, fancy restaurants enjoy leaving a piece of parsley on your dish for extra style points.  In Panama, parsley is replaced by rice.  It’s the only guarantee of the meal.  If pasta is being served, there will be rice.  If yucca (potatoes) is being served, there will be rice.  For some reason, if there is not rice on your plate the dog got to it before you.

6. I still hate bananas but I love fried plantains.

7. Living with a host family has brought me back to being 15 years old.  My first thought after dark has now become, “will I get home before my curfew?”

8. However, living with a host family is great.  I’m not treated like the white kid sleeping in the back room.  But rather, I’m strangely adopted as the grandkid.  I’ve have so many Panamanian aunts, uncles, and cousins, I’m embarrassed to say that I only remember a third of their names.

9. Talking to other volunteers, we have passed the point of wondering who the subject of the conversation was when someone mentions “her mother.”  Week 1-3 it was a tossup between US and Panamanian families.  Now mother simply means “Panamian mother.”  I never truly entered the confusion stage.  Living with a grandmother and grandfather, its easy for me to spew out abuelo y abuela.

10. Thanks to Collin for planting the seed to this observation.  The concept of walking down to the corner store for a soda and a snack was so foreign in the US, it seemed laughable to be given an allowance for the tiendas.  Now I dig the opportunity to hop down to the bodega for a coke and a pack of strawberry wafer cookies.

11. Panamanians are NOT transient.  I would be willing to bet the degrees of separation in Santa Rita (host town) is 5.  Kevin Bacon can’t even compete with that.

12. The Ngobe have mastered the poker face.

There is an equal chance, based on their expressions, that these people either came from a wedding or a funeral.  However their even-keeled mentality has allowed them to survive in some of the most arduous landscape.  Every step a Ngobe takes seems so methodically chosen to use the least amount of energy, and never have a bead of sweat appear on their.  But being 5’ and having a center of gravity below the surface of the Earth would definitely help you glide across the land instead of sauntering across it.  I have mad respect for the Ngobes.

13. Ngobes also stitch satchel bags that put European man purses to shame

14. I never realized how entertained I could be by chickens.

15. Though only chickens like this with baller haircuts are worthy of nicknames.  Mr. Dapper Dan


16. Mangy dogs roam everywhere.

17. Dogs belong to the house rather than the family.  If someone were to move tomorrow, dogs would idly sit by stupefied, but not follow.  And like clockwork, I guarantee that the new family moving in would straight up accept the dog’s existence like they were part of the deed.

18. Animals are not allowed in the house.  There are thousands of awesome ways to get animals to stop being pesky around your feet, and get out of the doorway.  My favorites include QUITA, VAYA, USAAA, 
Incomprehensible Spanish sentences, or my favorite: the old lady shoo.  The long drone of the SHHHHOOOOOO naturally becomes more effective with age as the perfect tone is ascertained and replicated through years and years of practice.  For some reason ALL men or women under the age of 55 cannot master this.

19. In the US pedestrians desperately search and fail for a taxi.  In Panama taxi drivers desperately search and fail for passengers.

20. Travel by chiva (AKA pickup truck) seems like a slapstick concept stripped out of a Mel Brooks comedy.  But in Ngobe Comarca land it’s the only way to get around.  Fortunately for me, gringos aren’t allowed to hang off the back, but that still won’t protect me from getting smashed by the 230 lb. man chilling on top of the truck bed.
Same Concept, Different Country


21. Every chiva and busito (think transportation for the family with 8 homeschooled kids) driver knows everyone.  Driving from the Darien to Panama City, our chauffeur honked and pointed at no less than 70% of pedestrians and vehicles in the Darien Province.

22. Speaking of the Darien, the indigenous Embara people are the exact opposite of the Ngobe, bubbly and gregarious.

23. Embara girls seem to have taken pages out of Greg Popovich’s coaching bible.  Defense and passing were the name to the game.  Their style absolutely put to shame that of any Panamian man attempting to take 4 steps with the ball sans dribbling.

24. Embara woman wear vibrantly pattern skirts that are supposedly rooted deep in Embara culture.  Thus, it makes me wonder how they developed such a good relationship with Japan, whom the Embara have now “apparently commissioned” to manufacture all their garments.

25. I had no idea who Prince Royce was before coming to Panama.  Now I have no idea why he never became famous in the US due to his immaculate branding and promotion to hide the minimal talent he might actually possess.

26. Tree fruit tastes 100x better than grocery fruit.

27. The roads leading in and out of Panama City are laughably inefficient.  So inefficient that vendors confidently set up shop on the side of the major roads to sell drinks to people waiting in traffic jams.  People also sell peppers too??

28.  Fishing in Panama consists of sardine bait, twine, a soda bottle, and a hook.  The results don’t lie either, 35 fish caught by 6 people in 6 hours is nothing to sneeze at.  I can only imagine Cabela's being stacked with Coke, A&W, and Sprite bottles to keep up with the times.

29.  Mother’s Day in Panama is a national holiday (December 8).  Tradition states that the mother cooks for everyone and does all the chores, while everyone else sits around.  Good thing the banks are closed to celebrate such variation in lifestyle.

30.  Panamanians are big fans of self-depreciation.  They’ll go out of their way to call themselves fat and ugly (and others for that matter).  Now if they only understood sarcasm, they’d love Louis CK.

31. I’d estimate that 60% of indigenous men own and wear either a Juan Carlos Navarro hat or t-shirt (2014 Presidential candidate).  They don’t see it as spreading the good word, but rather as a free item of clothing.  This proves the universal fact that everyone loves a free t-shirt.

32. Instead of pointing with a finger to guide someone’s vision to a certain spot, Panamanians curl up their lips and jerk their head to deliver a coordinate.  Usually I’m more confused after the question than before.

33. Crocs have magical powers.  Kids gracefully run, stop on a dime, turn, backpedal, juke, and kick in crocs better than I do in a pair of sneakers.

34.  If I grew up in Panama, I would think that only two soccer teams existed outside of Panama: FC Barcelona, and Real Madrid.

35. It costs 90 cents to take an hour and a half bus ride from Panama City to Santa Rita.  I’m pretty sure the toll to cross from NJ to PA on I-78 was just bumped up to a dollar.

36. Guaybera shirts are awesome and the ultimate formal attire cop-out.  The presence of 2 bottom pockets around the belt prevents a person from tucking it in.  Thus you can wear it to church, to the beach, or to meet the pope and not be out of place in any situation.

37. My first month plus in Panama has been great, and more than anything I have learned that all people really want the same things: safety, shelter, family, water, food, a sense of worth.  You strip everything else away, and you can still live an immensely happy and productive life.  Under the thatched roof of a Ngobe house, or the zinc roof of an Embara house, exist people.  People just like you, me, people in Europe, Africa, Asia, just wanting to essentially be happy and comfortable.  More or less I think these people have figured out what their happiness is.  They just need that something extra to make it permanent (as do I and everyone else).  The next two years will all be give and take with my new community as we both build each other up to truly achieve what we want in life; that comfortable happiness.


Stay tuned….

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